- File Size: 11352 KB
- Print Length: 466 pages
- Publisher: Penguin Books (July 21, 2015)
- Publication Date: July 21, 2015
- Sold by: Penguin Group (USA) LLC
- Language: English
- ASIN: B00G3L6JMS
- Text-to-Speech: Enabled
- Word Wise: Enabled
- Lending: Not Enabled
- Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #38,226 Paid in Kindle Store (See Top 100 Paid in Kindle Store)
|Print List Price:||$18.00|
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Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life Kindle Edition
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|Length: 466 pages||Word Wise: Enabled||Enhanced Typesetting: Enabled|
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About the Author
"A fascinating look inside the mind of a man terminally in love with a magnificent obsession. A lyrical and intense memoir."
"Publishers Weekly"(starred review)
Panoramic and fascinating The core of the book is a surfing chronicle, and Finnegan possesses impeccable short-board bona fides A revealing and magisterial account of a beautiful addiction.
Mark Rotella, "Publishers Weekly s Best Summer Books of the Summer: "
Like that powerful, glassy wave, great books on surfing come few and far between. This summer, New Yorker writer Finnegan recalls his teenage years in the California and Hawaii of the 1960s when surfing was an escape for loners and outcasts. A delightful storyteller, Finnegan takes readers on a journey from Hawaii to Australia, Fiji, and South Africa, where finding those waves is as challenging as riding them. "
A fascinating look inside the mind of a man terminally in love with a magnificent obsession. A lyrical and intense memoir.
An up-close and personal homage to the surfing lifestyle through the author s journey as a lifelong surfer. Finnegan s writing is polished and bold [A] high-caliber memoir. "
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I originally got the audiobook (even though I'm not an audiobook kind of guy) to help supplement my long drives to work. After the first few minutes, I was hooked. I've since listened to the audiobook twice, and have purchased a physical copy to see if it is as good as I would think holding it in my hand, going at my own pace. It is, and more.
I am not a surfer. I have never been a surfer, and - though I did spend a decent part of my youth summers at the beach - surfing to me has always been one of those things, "Out there", in the ether. Ephemeral. Johnny Utah and that kind of stuff. Despite that, I have found myself drawn to it's literature, perhaps because of a longing of things I wish I'd done, perhaps to quench my knack of ex-patness, perhaps as a midlife crisis. Regardless, though this book is "about' (I use quotes intentionally, b/c it can or is or encompasses just that, but also so much more) surfing, it is written so eloquently that it could be about anything, and I would still love it.
The prose, the pace, the presentation of the subject matter both intimate and as timepieces from afar - everything about this book is wonderful.
Read it, you won't be disappointed.
When I was finished, I noticed that my book had somehow become water damaged, which left the pages wrinkled. It was almost like the book had lived a bit and seen the sea a few too many times. Somehow this left me with a sense of pride, as if some of this adventure was mine as well. That is what good writing does, and it's too bad that we have to plow through so many books to find one like this.
I can recall across from Pier Avenue Elementary School was Greg Noll's..just down the street at Jacob's surfboard shops. The LightHouse was a popular place and across the street was the Golden Bear..perhaps some might recall.
Ventured to Hawaii and spent a month or so surfing the North Shore with my 9'6" Bing and "learned my lesson" about surfing the "bigger waves". Moved into Waikiki and lived in what was called "The Cages" and work at Hawaiian Tuna Packers..after leaving and receiving draft notice..did a tour in RVN 68-69..returned to college and retired as LTC US Army Infantry Officer. Worked most of the wars with my last gig in Uganda training and assisting the battalions in preparation for deployment into Mog, Somalia.
Those were the "good ol' days" with sun, sea, surf and great times. Few crowds..a welcome community of local surf guys and few social issues. How times have changed..!
Been surfing for many years..I have my 9'6" Becker over my desk. thanks Bill for the memories! (Pic(s): Surfboard & FOB Gardez, Afghanistan
Top international reviews
Bill Finnegan is a New Yorker staffer with a background in political and conflict reportage, so he knows his writing chops and has the contacts and reputation for this to come to the attention of the literary establishment in a way that most surfing books probably don’t. Having said that, this is the best book on the topic that I’ve read since Andy Martin’s Walking on Water, another minor masterpiece.
He never says as much, but Finnegan is a minor hellman, a big-wave surfer. Not the truly giant stuff taken on by household names like Laird Hamilton (ok, showing my age now) but still, this is a guy who has taken on most of the world’s best waves, including some of the heaviest. A man who has consistently surfed sessions in 10-15ft, often at breaks where reefs and rocks require complete commitment.
Very few of the people that can do this can also write as well as Finnegan, and the descriptions he brings back from the wave face and ‘out the back’ in big swells ring with a sonorous truth.
Bill Finnegan also captures the moment and the people beautifully, growing up in the 60s in LA and Hawaii, travelling cheap and light looking for waves in the 70s and 80s. I found myself constantly drawn back to this book, and to the water. The recent arrival of two children mean that it’s been a long while since I bothered to check the surf at the local breaks. I’m thinking that needs to change.
How much a non surfer would get from this is hard to gauge, it might seem somewhat self indigent. Anyone who surfs though and has a taste for a good turn of phrase will love it
I wont give it 5 stars only because there are certain parts o the book that arent that interesting.
I wish I could remember whole sections by heart but I'll stick with a few specific memories of sessions described with detail and prose finely balanced to take you right there. From the colours of the waves and sky to the sensations and visuals he delivers in spades