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EDO Tech Direct HardWire Power Cord Kit for Whistler Radar Laser Detector

4.5 out of 5 stars 129 ratings

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  • For Whistler radar detector 1400 series and higher Xtr-105 Xtr-123 Xtr-130 Xtr-135 Xtr-140 Xtr-145 Xtr-150 Xtr-180 Xtr-195 Xtr-220 Xtr-225 Xtr-255 Xtr-260 Xtr-265 Xtr-310 Xtr-312 Xtr-325 Xtr-330 Xtr-335 Xtr-338 Xtr-420 Xtr-425 Xtr-430 Xtr-435 Xtr-438 Xtr-440 Xtr-445 Xtr-475 Xtr-500 Xtr-520 Xtr-538 Xtr-540 Xtr-543 Xtr-550 Xtr-555 Xtr-558 Xtr-560 Xtr-575 Xtr-580 Xtr-585 Xtr-590 Xtr-658 Xtr-690 Xtr-690se Xtr-693se Xtr-695se Xtr-1788 XCS800 Pro58 Pro68 Pro73 Pro78 Pro78se 945euro
  • Whistler 975 949 948 1125sw 1200 1430 1450 1460 1470 1505 1515 1520 1525 1530 1540 1545 1550 1560 1565se 1580 1585 1595se 1630 1640
  • De-1650 De-1793SE De-1605 De-1610 De-1655 De-1660 De-1670 De-1670LD De-1675 1710 De-1730c De-1732 De-1733 1734c 1740 De-1743c 1744 De-1745 De-1748 De-1750 1753 De-1758c De-1760 De-1765 De-1763 De-1765 De-1770 De-1773c De-1776 De-1778 De-1780 De-1783 De-1785 De-1790se Srt-30r Srt-35r Cr65 Cr68 Cr70 Cr73 Cr75 Cr80 Cr85 Cr88 Cr90 Cr93 Cr95 Z-19 Z-19r Z-11r Z-15r Z-23r Z-27r rlc-100 rlc-250 Lr-300gp
  • MFU440 5000ex 5025ex 5050ex 5075exs
  • Compatible with Whistler Part#: 206552 206553 with inline fuse, straight cable approx. 10' in length
  • Wire can be added to the end of cable to extend the total length
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Product description

for Whistler radar detector 1400 series and higher Xtr-105 Xtr-123 Xtr-130 Xtr-135 Xtr-140 Xtr-145 Xtr-150 Xtr-180 Xtr-195 Xtr-220 Xtr-225 Xtr-255 Xtr-260 Xtr-265 Xtr-310 Xtr-312 Xtr-325 Xtr-330 Xtr-335 Xtr-338 Xtr-420 Xtr-425 Xtr-430 Xtr-435 Xtr-438 Xtr-440 Xtr-445 Xtr-475 Xtr-500 Xtr-520 Xtr-538 Xtr-540 Xtr-543 Xtr-550 Xtr-555 Xtr-558 Xtr-560 Xtr-575 Xtr-580 Xtr-585 Xtr-590 Xtr-658 Xtr-690 Xtr-690se Xtr-693se Xtr-695se Xtr-1788 XCS800 Pro58 Pro68 Pro73 Pro78 Pro78se 945euro Whistler 975 949 948 1125sw 1200 1430 1450 1460 1470 1505 1515 1520 1525 1530 1540 1545 1550 1560 1565se 1580 1585 1595se 1630 1640 De-1650 De-1793SE De-1605 De-1610 De-1655 De-1660 De-1670 De-1670LD De-1675 1710 De-1730c De-1732 De-1733 1734c 1740 De-1743c 1744 De-1745 De-1748 De-1750 1753 De-1758c De-1760 De-1765 De-1763 De-1765 De-1770 De-1773c De-1776 De-1778 De-1780 De-1783 De-1785 De-1790se Srt-30r Srt-35r Cr65 Cr70 Cr75 Cr80 Cr85 Cr90 Cr95 Z-19 Z-19r Z-11r Z-15r Z-23r Z-27r rlc-100 rlc-250 Lr-300gp

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4.5 out of 5 stars
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Reviewed in the United States on August 11, 2016
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5.0 out of 5 stars Best Way to Hardwire a Whistler Radar Detector: Tutorial & Fix For Loose Connection
By Jared - Mr Everything on August 11, 2016
I've been using a Whistler radar detector in my cars for years now and up until now have just mounted them low on the windshield and plugged them in via the 12V outlet. The new car I got has constant power going to the 12V outlet so you either need to unplug the cord or slide the wheel to turn it off every time you leave the car which isn't near as nice and simply having it shut on and off with the car itself.

Surprisingly it was somewhat hard to find a hardwire kit for Whistler radar detectors (though there are a plethora of ones for Beltronics, Escort, and even Cobra) I didn't even see any on their website so the only place I can find them is here on Amazon. There is another brand but I like the looks of this one a bit better; the color coded wires, fuse holder, plug, and sleeve over both wires looks to be better quality on this one and this sells for the same price. (The thicker sleeve over the wires might be a problem for certain applications as it makes the wire a bit thicker and less flexible so keep that in mind.)

The length is just under 10ft and I ended up needing every bit of it with only a few inches extra left to zip tie the wires down behind the fuse box. There are several ways to go about powering the detector but I think the easiest is to buy an "Add A Circuit" run the positive wire into it, plug it into the fuse box, and buy a loop connector to run the negative wire into and bolt it onto a screw on metal (which there should be on the fuse box or very close by.) Add a circuits can be found at a car parts store or a store that has a car electronics section. You'll need to know what style of fuse your car uses to buy the correct add a circuit. I also bought some common electrical connectors to use one for the ground since this wire doesn't come with one already installed but you could probably just wedge the negative wire down in between the bolt and metal or add a washer. The wires themselves are incredibly thin so I ended up stripping the wires back a bit more and folding them to make them a bit thicker to take up more space inside the connectors. When adding the "Add A Circuit" into the fuse box you'll need to know what fuses go where (you can find that in the owners manual of your car or online) and try finding a low power one (10 amps or less) that goes to something non-essential that powers on when your car is turned on like the radio, windows, etc. I'd avoid using one for the air bags or ABS just to be on the safe side. Before using an occupied fuse I would try plugging into any unused fuse hole as in my car I found an unused one in the perfect spot that only runs power to the radar detector when the key is turned to the ON position. In my situation of using an unoccupied slot I technically wouldn't need to plug any fuses into the Add A Circuit since the hardwire kit itself comes with the proper fuse to protect the radar detector, not to mention a 10A fuse is going to be totally useless to protect it anyway because the detector would be fried long before a 10A fuse blows but I plugged both in anyway just to have a few extras in the car and make it easier to pull the Add A Circuit out if needed.

Depending on how your fuse box cover is designed you may need to cut out a section on the inside of the cover so it doesn't hit the Add A Circuit and not allow it to fit back on. I would recommend filing it down with a Dremel tool but I just used a good pair of wire cutters to hack away at the inner molding of the cover to give it enough space.

The only "defect" this product has is the barrel that plugs into the radar detector itself is just a tad bit smaller than the factory one. It still is completely compatible but ends up being a tad loose and any time I hit a big enough bump or touch a button on the detector it would lose power for a second and come back on. To fix this I cut a very narrow piece of electrical tape and wrapped it on the end of the barrel closest to the rest of the rubber plug, making sure to leave plenty of the metal barrel still exposed. This made the connection very tight to where it will no longer wiggle or move at all even if I move the radar detector itself. I am using the Whistler XTR - 265 which wasn't listed as compatible but it obviously is. I believe all Whistler detectors use the same size plug so this should fit all of them even if your's wasn't listed.

This hardwire kit enabled me to install my radar detector in a much better spot on my windshield which makes it easier to reach, hides any exposed wires a 12V setup would show, only powers the radar detector on when I start the car and powers it off when I shut off the car. I can now even put my sun reflector in the windshield without having to take the detector off it's bracket and out of the window. From now on I'll be installing all my radar detectors this way and as long as I stick with Whistler I'll continue to use this product.
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