Top positive review
This and So Much More.
Reviewed in the United States on July 15, 2016
This is, quite simply, the best memoir I've ever read.
I originally got the audiobook (even though I'm not an audiobook kind of guy) to help supplement my long drives to work. After the first few minutes, I was hooked. I've since listened to the audiobook twice, and have purchased a physical copy to see if it is as good as I would think holding it in my hand, going at my own pace. It is, and more.
I am not a surfer. I have never been a surfer, and - though I did spend a decent part of my youth summers at the beach - surfing to me has always been one of those things, "Out there", in the ether. Ephemeral. Johnny Utah and that kind of stuff. Despite that, I have found myself drawn to it's literature, perhaps because of a longing of things I wish I'd done, perhaps to quench my knack of ex-patness, perhaps as a midlife crisis. Regardless, though this book is "about' (I use quotes intentionally, b/c it can or is or encompasses just that, but also so much more) surfing, it is written so eloquently that it could be about anything, and I would still love it.
The prose, the pace, the presentation of the subject matter both intimate and as timepieces from afar - everything about this book is wonderful.
Read it, you won't be disappointed.