Top positive review
Very useful thing.
Reviewed in the United States on July 29, 2018
Exercise caution with WHERE you place your fingers to press the aspirator bulb. If you press it in the middle of the aspirator bulb, as the car warms up, the coolant in the radiator will expand and rise up to the neck, and, eventually, with to much suction, will get into the test sample, and contaminate it.
However, if you GENTLY press the very top of the aspirator bulb, where the metal ball is, it will only get the gas bubbles come through the catalist into the test tube, and not, the coolant with it. Just GENTLY squeeze the top, by the metal ball, with the frequency of, say, one/two squeezes in 3-5 seconds, then let it sit for some 10-20 seconds, and bubble its way up, then squeeze a couple of times again, and so on, and so forth. Do this whole thing for some 5-6 minutes, (provided you have warmed the car/truck to the operating temperature BEFORE you have started the test). (Also, do not be affraid to drain the coolant out of the radiator, until you can't see it through the radiator neck. It will save you some contamination frustration, and having to do the de-contamination procedure several times, before you get the test done right.)
The fluid will start turning first greenish-blue, then, green and greener, (by that time, it is preety obvious that there is something in there), and then, will gradually move into the brownish-yellow shade. I stopped at the point when it was light greenish color, for there was a pretty obvious difference with the blue bottle next to it. Clearly, something is happening inside the engine.
One more thing,
BE CAREFUL when you pull out the glass tube after you have finished the test. If you pull it out right away, when the engine is hot, you'll get a fountain of scolding coolant blasting out of the neck of the radiator.
Believe me, it is NOT awesome!
Let it cool off for 10-20 minutes, or put a thick old beach towel around the radiator neck, and wear thick gloves, THEN try to pull the glass tube out.